Thursday, January 5, 2012

The First Week of a New Year

It’s been a while. The past week or so has mainly consisted of introducing my family to Morocco and giving them a glimpse into my daily delights and challenges. It’s meant so much for me to have them here and just a week in their company is making it hard to face being so completely alone again in a few days. I feel better prepared for it this time, but saying goodbye to my parents last night felt a lot like saying goodbye to them at the Burlington airport five months ago.

Bree (my sister) and Travis (my brother-in-law) still have a couple days left with me in Morocco. Our plans to go to Marrakesh for a few days were cancelled due to the nasty cold Bree & I seem to have acquired. We decided to stay here and lay low instead, especially because in a few days, I'll be on the road again, in a new country, with its own set of puzzles to solve. It’s hard not to be consumed with upcoming logistics and worries for a new place, but I’m trying to enjoy the little time I have left here, and savor my memories of having some familiar faces in the midst of this unfamiliar year.


One highlight in particular was a cooking class at the Riad where we were staying: Moroccan salad, vegetable Tajine, oranges with cinnamon & rose water and, of course, mint tea.


We also had the best helper (the 3 year-old daughter of the couple who runs the Riad became a new friend).

I'll be honest and say that it's really hard to let go of this visit and remind myself that I have seven more months of solo travel before I can come home to this again. It was both rejuvenating and really nostalgia-inducing to see family at this point in the year. But I am so glad they came, even though it's hard to go through another goodbye.

Sometimes this year feels like something I'll never be able to explain to people; not only because of all these new places and sights and sounds but also because the experience of being alone in this is, I think, a really unique one. It's so strange to feel like I'm constantly making up the rules as I go along, trying to define exactly that I'm doing and how to do it, and never quite sure what I'm working towards except for making my eyes a little bit wider and my mind a little bit fuller.

Because of this, it makes me so grateful that in Morocco, I got to have visitors, to have people who can maybe understand a bit more of what this is for me; who will listen to my stories and share their own. People who will now know what I'm talking about when I mention the Oudayas, who will (strongly) encourage me to make tajines when I'm home in the U.S., and who remind me how lucky I am to be doing what I'm doing, but also remind me that it's okay if I need to cry about it sometimes. In other words, people who make me feel at home.

Even in Morocco.

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Five Month Watsoversary

Technically, I’m already a day into my sixth month (I blame my parents’ visit for the fact that I'm posting this one day late). In yesterday’s conglomeration of medina wandering, ocean walks, and storytelling over mint tea and avocado smoothies, a blog posting felt a little less significant.

I’ve gotten to be a little spoiled this past month. Looking back at all of these watsoversaries, this past month was perhaps, a little anticlimactic. (I'm not complaining). I’ve been in Rabat the whole time with enough stability to meet with lots of people about my research, make myself breakfast every morning and go grocery shopping at a vegetable market right near my house. It’s been wonderful to see some familiar faces in the last month and let friends and family treat me to a couple comfortable beds in beautiful Riads and enough tajines to make my heart (and stomach) content. Although there are always daily challenges when traveling—language barriers to combat, landmarks to remember, and cultural flubs, it’s largely been a month of stability. That's part of why it's going to be hard to tear myself away from Rabat in less than two weeks.

In the past month I have:

-Visited a Moroccan hammam (public bathhouse) and got cleaner than I’ve probably ever been in my life.

-Had my hands covered with Moroccan henna (and compared the Rabat designs with those from Mysore, India).

-Was a guest speaker at a local school.

-Received the first piece of mail of my Watson year away.

-Done a lot of catsitting.

-Cooked with vegetables from a Moroccan CSA

-Met a new friend who, in the ultimate small world coincidence, was a counselor at the tiny, all girls, bilingual summer camp in St. Donat, Quebec where I was a camper from ages 11-14. (Of course I would meet her in Rabat, Morocco).

-Spent a lot of time bundled up by the ocean.

-Tried on a takchita.

-Spent a few nights in the Fez medina, believed to be the world’s largest car-free urban area and home to the University Al-Karaouine (founded in 859 AD) which is believed to be the oldest (still functioning) university.

-Had my first visits from friends and family of the year.

-Been rowed across the river between Rabat and Sale

-Learned how to make spring rolls. In Morocco. (Sign of globalization #23434).

-Had a Christmas Eve alone.

-Celebrated Christmas without a tree or gift wrap or stockings or home.

-Honed my bargaining skills and walked away with four small Moroccan rugs.

-Fallen in love with the new Rabat-Sale tramway system.

-Cooked chocolate chip cookies and apple pie in a toaster oven (sign of desperation rather than resourcefulness after five months out of the U.S….)

-Due to a genius Christmas present from my cousin Chris, spent way more time doing the New York Times Crossword puzzle online than I would like to admit. (Wednesdays-Sundays are still a big challenge).

-Can now make basic conversation in Moroccan Arabic, as long as the person I’m speaking to wants me to identify all the food on a table, the days of the week, or count to ten.

I feel fortified by my visitors, content from the recent holidays, and ready to ring in the New Year and seven more months of adventure.


Monday, December 26, 2011

Christmas in Morocco

Just as I was feeling the Christmas-Eve-alone blues, Santa swept in and brought my parents to the Casablanca airport yesterday morning. After five months of (mainly) solo travel, I was only a little excited to see them.

Exponential excitement leads to childish handmade airport arrival signs. (Thankfully Christmas colors are the same as Morocco colors).

I'm taking a holiday hiatus from research and am currently in Sale (across the river from Rabat) soaking up the sun, taking long walks through the medinas, and doing a whole lot of catch up.



I was excited, but I actually couldn't even have predicted just how good it feels to see them after all this time and all of these new experiences.

Christmas dinner in Rabat.
With my Christmas goodies, including quick dry underwear, Lake Champlain Chocolates, Dr. Bronner's soap and, most importantly, and most expensively, anti-malarial medicine for Zambia.

It is amazing to think that a year after my parents "rashly" promised me that they'd come visit wherever I was for Christmas if I got a Watson fellowship, here we are, together in Morocco.


Thank you, Santa. Thank you, Watson. Wishing you and yours a very happy holiday (just a day late). Later this week my sister and brother-in-law will be arriving and we'll all ring in the new year here together.

In the meantime, I am one happy camper.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Holiday Nostalgia

So I know I'm really lucky to be spending a year this way, but I'm not going to lie, there's a LOT I would give to be home right about now...

Photos from December, 2010.



Thursday, December 22, 2011

Name Post: Student Voices

During the last two weeks I’ve been in and out of the Rabat American School speaking to students (8th grade-12th grade) about my fellowship, my research, and their own opinions on some of the fundamental questions I’m exploring. RAS is located in Rabat’s Agdal neighborhood and offers an American-based education for grades kindergarten through twelfth. About 35% of the students are Moroccan and the other 65% are from a huge variety of international backgrounds.

Over the past five weeks in Rabat, I’ve become friends with a few teachers at the school and we agreed that my project would be a good fit in a lot of their classes. I spoke with one 8th grade Moroccan Studies class, two 10th grade English classes, two Theory of Knowledge classes (one 11th grade, one 12th grade), and one 12th grade Political Science class. Feeling far too young for my “guest speaker” title, but also far too old to be eating on a tray in the high school cafeteria, I tried to strike a balance of presenting information to them through informal conversation.

I set up a PowerPoint about my project and we debated a lot of questions that arose from it. Questions like, “Is it ethical for the government to restrict what people can name their children? Is the power to give a name a human right?” and “How central is a name to a person’s identity? (How do names shape who we are?” We also attempted to answer “What assumptions do we make about people based on their names?” and “How are names changing in 2011? What influence does globalization have on names?”

Being the English nerd I am, I pulled up a couple of competing literary passages about names to give them a chance to see where they fall on the spectrum of how important names are to our identities… in other words, are you more of a Juliet or an Anne?

O, be some other name!
What's in a name? that which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;
So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd,
Retain that dear perfection which he owes
Without that title.

--Romeo and Juliet, William Shakespeare.

In contrast to:

"Unromantic fiddlesticks!" said the unsympathetic Marilla.
"Anne is a real good plain sensible name. You've no need to
be ashamed of it."

"Oh, I'm not ashamed of it," explained Anne, "only I like
Cordelia better. I've always imagined that my name was
Cordelia--at least, I always have of late years. When I was
young I used to imagine it was Geraldine, but I like
Cordelia better now. But if you call me Anne please call me
Anne spelled with an E."

"What difference does it make how it's spelled?" asked Marilla
with another rusty smile as she picked up the teapot.

"Oh, it makes SUCH a difference. It LOOKS so much nicer.
When you hear a name pronounced can't you always see it in
your mind, just as if it was printed out? I can; and A-n-n
looks dreadful, but A-n-n-e looks so much more distinguished.
If you'll only call me Anne spelled with an E I shall try to
reconcile myself to not being called Cordelia.

-Anne of Green Gables, L.M. Montgomery

Let’s admit it, I side way more with Anne on this one, but it was so interesting to hear students’ opinions on this. Several classes wrote responses to the question “How central is your name to your identity?” and their answers were all over the spectrum. For me, going into RAS was a great opportunity to practice how to articulate what I’m studying (and why it’s important) to others, as well as hear a variety of perspectives from Moroccan students about their own names. At a school with such an international population, I met students from Germany, Belgium, Korea, the Philippines, the USA, Italy, Spain and the UK who could fill me in on naming in a lot of different countries.

I also got to hear a lot of great stories, like one teacher at the school who converted to Islam in order to adopt a boy from Morocco years ago, but just within the last few months was able to finally give him the same last name as her, or about a girl at the school whose name means “crown of flowers” because her mother kept making these when she was pregnant with her.

Several of them gave me permission to pull quotes from their reflections, and I’ll let their insight and enthusiasm speak for itself:

“Personally at least, since I am named after Nelson Mandela, I was raised with “leftist” or “left-leaning” ideals, and Nelson Mandela, although religious, was a big advocate of those. My name defines how I act, how I am perceived. I think that if I had a different name I would only act differently because a different family would have named me, and that same family would have raised me differently—I am proud of my name and what it stands for, and I hope to honor it.”

“I personally don’t think my name says anything about me at all. First of all, my parents chose it when I was a still a little shrimp so there is no way it could reflect any aspect of my personality. Also, I’d be just as happy with Hassan or Zak or whatever other name. If we were able to choose our own names than maybe we’d see a certain part of ourselves in that name.”

“My name, Mehdi, is one that derives from the Arabs. In family life I am indirectly related to the prophet Mohammad, peace be upon Him. The meaning of my name is “the straight path.” While my name has no identity to Morocco, the country in which I’ve been living my whole life, it is a relatively common name (There are two Mehdi’s in RAS). My name thus is not a specific name of a specific tribe or sect or region in Morocco, it’s a name that can be found across the Arab world, along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. As years pass on we find that many societies are detaching from the religious sides of their family. Religion has become something of the past. Although I am a practicing Muslim, I find that the world “I don’t really care” are beginning to be uttered much more oftenly. As a result, we see many teens are getting the idea that not caring about what their choices are makes them “cool.” Identity is becoming a larger blur to many and I believe that in a matter of time people won’t carry any identity of their own. “

“Amir is a very rare name, quite like myself, but I don’t think I’ve ever met a teacher that hasn’t mentioned the originality of my case to me; sometimes with a positive connotation and sometimes with a negative one. It also translates into prince, I don’t know what aspects of a Prince I might have, I presume none, however, many have also pointed out that I’m a bit of an egomaniac, I suppose a monarch has some confidence. It could also be used to refer to someone who is quite good at something. The prince of football, the prince of literature…So this name may also signify that you will be important or simply at one period in time you will be a master in something. I think if it’s a name, like Pearl or Ketchup it could mean that your parents were open to a lot of things and not conservative. It says a lot about your parents if they name you after a movie star, after a prophet rather than a politician…it shows what they care about because they would name their kid after it.”

“I believe that names and identities have no correlation whatsoever because a name does not give insight to one’s person. The fact that our name is given to us a chosen by a parent just proves that our names and identities are not relevant. Some people may say “her name fits her face”, which is sometimes true depending on people’s past experiences and perceptions. However, this is purely physical and aesthetic, and I believe it does not really coincide with one’s identity. I think that identity has to do with personality, self-individual.”

“Although my name is used throughout the world (even if with different spellings), it says a lot about where I come from. Mariam, spelled this way, is an Arab name. I would not think of any more beautiful name, although I wish I could fit the descriptions of it. The Virgin Mary was a saint, and although I am still young, I know I am no saint. I am human. My name means a lot to me because it says a lot about where I come from. It is also because it is the only female name that has a whole verse about it in the Quran. Other than that, my name has no reflection over my personality, which is I consider the strongest factor of my identity. The name indicates that I am Arab, so it says a lot about my culture, my background and the environment I come from. Because a name reflects where you come from and what social background you come from, people automatically make assumptions about you. These assumptions are due to generalizations or other people they know who bear the same name. If a name is really unique, we tend to identify it with a single person we know. Names say a lot about you that each person interprets differently. Some people change their names to be accepted, or to have more chances.”

Can you see how thrilled I was to have such thoughtful and interesting students to share my enthusiasm for this topic with? Sometimes this can feel like such a solo endeavor, and it’s always nice to find people to share my experiences with along the way. I was also really touched by how concerned these students were (particularly the 8th graders) for my well being as I go on this journey…a lot of them were absolutely shocked I don’t have anyone to meet me in each place (or anyone to be “monitoring” me, as one 8th-grader put it).

I gave the students the link to my blog (with the forewarning that some entries are solely gratuitous updates of daily/personal life). Based on the number of hits from Morocco this week, I think some of them have been checking it out. To the RAS students who may be reading this: a sincere THANK YOU! It’s been such a pleasure getting to know you and hearing your stories.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

This Year's Wish List

My Christmas list this year is pretty pathetic. The real gift is that family is coming to visit me in Morocco next week (!), and so when people ask what I want for Christmas I’m kind of at a loss. When my mom asked what she could bring me, all that came to mind was more pairs of quick dry travel underwear and Dr. Bronner’s liquid soap. (I will be the first to admit this is more pathetic than selfless). Truth be told, I’m much more excited to pass on some things I’ve collected to go back to the U.S. than to receive anything. Living out of a suitcase for a year in seven different climates means that stuff becomes a burden as much as a gift.

That said, a lot of stuff that I’ve collected this year has become really important to me and also acts as a way of showing the time that has passed. The admission that there aren’t a lot of things I want this Christmas isn’t really a lack of materialism, just a matter of practicality. Truth be told, I can be somewhat materialistic. One of the many things the psychic I met in Ubud told me was, “Hmm, you really like pretty things.” Yep. Can’t deny that one. The truth hurts.

In my defense, most of the pretty things I really like are not because they are merely pretty. Things, like names, carry stories. Lugging around such a small amount of things with me this year, having the same x number of outfits to get dressed from, having to be able to carry (or drag) all that I have has only made this more so. I think of the many different streets, mountains and houses my shoes have walked in during the last (almost) five months and I know that no matter how worn out they get I'll never be able to get rid of them. As most of my communication with people who are dear to me happens solely through a cyber connection these days, the tangible things in my life have taken on greater importance. A card that my parents gave me before I left (with the picture at the bottom of this post), or a photo album I put together in Bali (because looking at photos on the computer just isn’t the same).

I was skyping with a friend last week and I noticed she was drinking tea from a mug I gave her for Christmas three years ago and almost burst into tears. There is something about interacting with these things, and about using whatever we (literally) carry with us that has somehow reached this new depth while I’m away.

It’s probably the same reason why I cried when opening up this box with a handwritten Burlington address. I’ve been on the move so much that it’s the first piece of mail I’ve gotten all year, and there was something about emptying its contents and holding them that made me feel way closer to home than any kind of skype date would.

(Thanks Gail & Hanna)

Included in the package's contents. For anyone who hasn't yet tried "Grace Under Fire" do so immediately, because Grace Potter teaming up with Lake Champlain Chocolates is pretty much the best thing to happen to Vermont since Ben & Jerry became friends.

In a weird way, some of these things are all that I will have that has shared this journey with me. They also might help me make the transition back to home, many months from now. I can imagine that because this experience is, in some ways, such an isolating one, there are going to be days when life goes on and I almost feel like I dreamed it all. I’m counting on these things to bring me back.

I sent a box home from India a while ago that arrived at my parents’ house in Burlington recently. I told my mom she should feel free to open it and see what I was sending back but she said no. She looked at the package, which was covered in fabric, and had been stitched up with thread and sealing wax at a post office in Jaipur and said, “I think that it’s actually going to be really important for YOU to open that when you’re back.”

I think she’s right.

I agree with many other people in the world who feel that this season often shows consumerism and materialism at their worst, but I also wanted to offer this defense of things, at least in moderation. There is a lot of comfort in the fact that I know when I finally do go home, no matter what else is going on or where I’m headed from there, there will be a box waiting for me in my bedroom. I’ll be able to unwrap its contents, see my (then) nine-month old handwriting, breathe deep and smell a little bit of India, remember where each little thing was acquired, and then remember that at one time, I was right there too.

The image from a card my parents gave me that I have been carrying around with me. "Ausflug" by Quint Buchholz.